Tool set Req’s For Sheaths?

I am starting some fixed blade edc’s. They’ll need sheaths. Having never done any leather work I am in need of some guidance.

I need a few tools to get started but don’t know where to start. I have watched quite a few videos and like anything else everyone has their own preferences towards tools. There are lots of “starter kits” online but the tools generally appear cheap and offer things I don’t need.

I figure I can make a round knife. Are there any other tools that are necessary for work that I could make? I have no lathe or mill so I’m a bit limited for fabricating things.

For leather, I’ve been looking at 9-10oz veg tanned shoulders. Not sure if going to 11-12oz is totally over kill. I would like to do some wet forming, does one weight better for that than another? Preferably it would hold it’s wet formed lines well.

Dyes are another thing. What is the most colorfast for dyes?

Anyway, here’s the rough design. Not forging at all for the last few months I’ve seem to forgotten everything about getting steel to go where I want it to. The first forge form helped me do much better on the second. Both have been normalized 3x’s. Hoping to get some time in front of the grinder tomorrow morning, but we’ll see. 1084 for the steel.

I would say that 11-12oz is too heavy. As for tools really any knife will work (i use a wood carving knife) even a X-acto style knife. It certainly would be cool to make your own round knife. You'll need Some harness needles (size 2) and thread. There are different methods of punching the holes so you would need either a set of stitching chisels ( which makes it easier to get even spaced holes) or a stitching awl (which requires some other tools to mark the holes but is a more traditional method) and some Bees wax. Though it can be done without it is also sure handy to have some sort of stitching pony to hold the work while you are stitching.
Make sure that you get some Veg tanned leather if you want to do wet molding.
I've had good luck with Feibings Pro dye.
A stitching groover is a must to make a nice channel for the stitches to set in.
As far as the weight of the leather, i use 5-6 oz. for things that need more detailed molding but that might be too light for knife sheaths (though i've used it)
Tandy leather is a good place to get supplies but Weaver leathers tools are higher quality IMHO

As far as making your own tools, i think about the easiest thing to make would be the stitching pony. Things like stitching chisels seem like they would takes some precision and awls and needles are cheap enough to buy (though i've made my own awl blades too).

If i think on any thing else i'll add it.
keep us informed on your progress!

I have plenty of bees wax if you need some.

+1 to the pro dye recommendation. It has (for me at least) seemed to give more even colour, and more importantly will not rub off on clothing etc. as much as other dyes.

A round knife is on my "to make" list too. Also, a rotary cutter makes short work of longer cuts in heavy leather. That plus a cutting board would be my biggest cutting tool recommendation beyond an x-acto.

Stainless steel ruler for straight cuts - one with a cork backing will help keep it from slipping.

Burnisher (aka "slicker") for your edges. If you turn wood, it would be simple to make from hardwood, but otherwise any cheap one should do.

For sheaths I have had good luck with 9oz, but that was for pretty big camp knives. For anything smaller, I think it would be overkill and somewhere around 7oz would probably be better. Most places will sell small pieces (1-2 sqft), maybe get a few in different weights and see which would work best for you? I haven't noticed a big difference between weights in terms of wet molding and the leather holding its form.

+1 also to the stitching chisels suggestion. Punching with an awl is possible and some folks seems to make it really work well, but my one attempt was an embarrassment that ended up in the bin. They can be insanely expensive, but between that and the really cheap crap is a pretty broad sweet spot like the ones Vern linked. A cheap plastic cutting board from the dollar store works pretty well for a backing when punching.

One other thing that probably isn't needed so much with smaller sized projects like a sheath but was an absolute life-saver on a duffle bag I just finished are these little things:
Super, super handy when working on long stitch lines with pieces of leather that really don't want to line up on their own. I just wish I knew what to call them beyond the very AliExpress-ish "Leather Suture Positioning Needle DYI Tool Suture Fixed Position Needle Leather Fixed Suture Needle Craft Supplies".

Is there a good size (space between stitches) to get for the stitching chisels?

Glue was another question I forgot to ask. Is any old contact cement good enough?

Thank you for all the info, guys. This is really helpful. I think getting a few samples of different weights is probably the way to go for leather until I figure out what will work for my preferences.

Generally for leather they use Barge Cement which is a type of contact cement. I was going to mention that i use regular rubber cement to hold the pieces together for stitching. (coat both pieces and let dry till it's dull then stick together) this has the advantage of being able to pull the pieces apart easier if needed to reposition. They both have their purpose.

I use a stitch spacing of 6 per inch for most general utility type projects (not sure what that is in mm's)

John I got a knife that you can practice on!

verndahl said:

I use a stitch spacing of 6 per inch for most general utility type projects (not sure what that is in mm's)

Click to expand...

That would be about 4mm. The first set of stitching punches I bought was 6mm and I found it way too wide. So I think 4 or 5mm (or equivalent) would be a good place to start.

I haven't used barge, but it's pretty much what everyone seems to use, so once my contact cement runs out I'll be trying that. There are also water-based glues that are much nicer to work with. I am currently using stuff called "Aquilim 315". I don't think it holds as strong as barge would, but it's more than enough to hold things in place for stitching.

cangooner said:

but it's more than enough to hold things in place for stitching.

Click to expand...

That is my thought. The stitching holds it but the glue saves trying to hold punch and stitch 3 layers etc.

Showing my inexperience.

How do the different glues effect the different dyes?

32t said:

How do the different glues effect the different dyes?

Click to expand...

No idea! I think it's not so much how the glue affects the dye, but how the dye can affect the glue. The glued bits are going to be hidden, right? But it's a good idea to scuff any dyed or finished surface to give the glue something to adhere to. They make special tools for that, but I find sandpaper works fine.

One thing I forgot to mention about Barge glue: they have a toluene-free formula. Your brain cells may thank you for going with that option. Buckleguy (great source for hardware, stitching supplies, etc) as a good info page for Barge:

https://www.buckleguy.com/buckleguy-blog/barge-adhesives-and-cements-how-to-use-them-and-application-methods/

tcrideshd said:

John I got a knife that you can practice on!

Click to expand...

I’ll take you up on that.

Send me your addy

Here it s John

That is a Goodman I think.

I think TC made it with Scott a few years back.

I did make one based on Scott’s design and his help, but I made that one for my son-in-law law, this is one Scott gave me. And I love it!

So yes Tim you are correct

I got a similar one, back when Scott and I had a bet on Mayweather vs McGregor.
I tried to get another bet going for the Tyson fight but couldn't find anyone to bet against Tyson.

So trying to finish my purchase order up so I can start this sheath.

I’m hung up on between getting a pricking wheel or getting pricking irons. Seems to me most sheaths will require very few straight sections of stitching. Do any of you have a preference for layout tools?

My next issue is awl shape. A French awl looks like it would match a pricking iron best. My other thought was an overstitch wheel for layout then get real good with an awl as far as getting a consistent angle on my holes.

I'm not adverse to spending money on tools, if it makes sense. I’d rather spend money up front rather than chase my tail with cheap tools then eventually end up with the more quality stuff. I just am not sure where I can skimp and where I need to but up. My grinder contact wheels are the perfect example. My wheels won’t stay flat. I have to dress them constantly and especially during final grinding. Had I known this would have been as problematic as it is I would have just spent the money on domestic wheels from reputable companies.

I'm definitely in the pro-pricking irons camp, but that may be because I've had less than happy experiences trying to get through multiple layers of leather with an awl in anything like an accurate or reliable manner. Curves are no sweat with pricking irons, just make sure whatever set you get includes one with two prongs. That lets you go around curves by putting one in the last hole to keep your spacing consistent, then setting the other one down where needed to follow the curve.

Also, if you do end up making projects with longer straight stitch lines (bags for example), the pricking irons with 4, 6, or even more prongs are really, really nice to have.

I do also use the awl on occasion (cleaning up holes that were under-cut by not whacking the iron with enough oomph, getting into tight spaces like belt loops, etc) so I'd say definitely get an awl too if you do go with the pricking irons. They seem to be sold out now, but this is the awl I got a while back. It works really well. Any one with a flat profile like that would be my suggestion.

One big work of warning though: since falling into a fairly deep leather-working rabbit hole earlier this year, my time playing with the forge has plummeted! I started making some sheaths, and next thing you know, I have two tote bags, a duffel bag, a handbag for my wife, a couple of masks, a dopp kit for my nephew, a wallet, and a new apron for the shop. And only a couple of brackets forged since summer.