32t's propane forge build

Discussion in 'The Forge' started by 32t, Mar 5, 2018.

  1. Randolph Tuttle

    Randolph Tuttle New Member

    Did not go to Wisconsin today. Wednesday I will then I will let you know the diameter of the pipes i have.
    geezer likes this.
  2. 32t

    32t Member

    Another question popped into my head.

    How do you paint the inside of a small bore of blanket. Paint it in by hand, with your hand?

    Mine needs at least 4" to get my hand in it.
    geezer likes this.
  3. Charlie Lewis

    Charlie Lewis Member

    I use a chip brush taped to a paint stirring stick. The end of the stirrer stick without the brush works well for smoothing and putting cement in the cavity.
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  4. Bruno

    Bruno Administrator Staff Member

    There are also brushes for painting central heating radiators. They have long handles and have the brush head at a 45 degree angle.
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  5. 32t

    32t Member

    I met my friend at archery tonight that is a tool and die maker. He is fine tuning a forge that he built. I always give him a hard time that he makes things with to close of tolerances. I showed him a picture of Charlies forge with bricks for the opening. He liked it and used that design. He was laughing at himself that the bricks fit perfectly when closed but then How do you get something in between them to open them!

    He offered to roll some sheet metal for me on the roller he built. 8" is the smallest diameter that it works well on. I am going to check my sheet metal stash in detail now.

    I know it will work if he made it.

    Sort of related, the picture is myself driving and him in the rear on a 1/3rd scale 1915 case tractor that he rolled the wheels for when making it!

    chris trac3.jpg
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  6. Bruno

    Bruno Administrator Staff Member

    I remember at Charlie's I used the beak of those pick-up tongs (the dainty ones :D ) to slide between the bricks and move them apart by dimply opening the beak.
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  7. Charlie Lewis

    Charlie Lewis Member

    The bricks are coated with refractory so they do not mate up perfectly, so there is always a small gap. I use the "dainty tongs" also.

    Thanks Bruno, now I know what to call those tongs :)
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  8. Randolph Tuttle

    Randolph Tuttle New Member

    Paint sticks .....
    32t likes this.
  9. 32t

    32t Member

    It looks like mine will be pink.

    Slowly but it is coming along.

    tank and burner.jpg
  10. 32t

    32t Member

    At least on this first version I am wondering about what to do for a handle. I have a"shop" that is not permanent.

    What do I do for a handle? Maybe leave the one that is there?

    If I leave the "top" and now back closed as used as a forge, other than being able to stick a longer piece through would there be any advantage to having the rear open?

    If the back was closed would I move the burner to the rear more than the middle of the chamber?
  11. Charlie Lewis

    Charlie Lewis Member

    I would not worry to much about the burner placement front to back wise, I would put it middle-ish and running tangent to the edge of the chamber. I am no expert but that is what has worked for me. You can bolt on any handle before you start stuffing your forge with insulation.
    paul76, RezDog and 32t like this.
  12. Mike Blue

    Mike Blue New Member

    Leave the front and back open. As long as you are building/welding, place some shelves in front and in back and use firebricks to adjust or close the openings to your liking or your fire needs. That way you have not committed to a permanent closure of the back hole and find a month later you need the opening for some long piece you're working on.

    I have made shelf frames from angle iron sufficient to hold a half inch flat firebrick fore and aft. The flat brick should line up with the tangent to the hole. This way you have support for your workpiece or a place to lay metal to allow it to absorb some heat rather than tossing cold iron into the fire (stressful). It's a place to lay tools. It should be big enough to hold bricks so you can adjust the size of the front opening anyway. I use a full thickness brick in the back to close it up.

    Charlie is correct about burner placement. Bring it in tangent to the inside of the hole, essentially in the middle of the length of the forge so the flame will swirl around inside and not just generate a hot spot on the opposite wall. There is less chance of uneven heating and temperatures.
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  13. 32t

    32t Member

    Got a little done today.

    Should have removed the lines because the holes are perfectly round and the lines are crooked!

    I made the second hole slightly smaller on purpose after looking at the first. I will decide after testing insulating it which one will be the front. The last picture is a little deceiving as they are about 1/2 inch different.

    forge.jpg forge1.jpg forge2.jpg
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  14. Charlie Lewis

    Charlie Lewis Member

    Since your forge is similar to mine in size, I figure I will post this here. I built my forge with a THICK cast lining, which is good for durability during a meet where it is running for 8 hours at a time at welding heat with borax, but not the most practical for every day sporadic use. It takes a long time to heat up. My forge also spews out carbon monoxide until it is up and running hot. None of my other forges that have thinner cast walls do this.

    I just wanted to share my experiences with the thick cast forge. I think ceramic wool with a thin-ish coating of refractory cement is a lot more practical for everyday use.
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  15. Mike Blue

    Mike Blue New Member

    Or I second the hard cast floor and upper arch of ceramic wool...the floor is durable and the forge heats faster than a monoblock of cast refractory.
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  16. 32t

    32t Member

    I like the idea of the hard cast floor but the way I have cut these ends how would I get the castable in there? With the way that the ends are cut now there is no open area to get it in.

    If I can get the form in there and cut a few holes from the bottom I could cast it that way.... Hmmmmm

    A thought to go to sleep on. I have 2 of these cylinders to play with and my friend said he had a couple of more if I needed them!
    Charlie Lewis likes this.
  17. Bruno

    Bruno Administrator Staff Member

    Seems rather simple to me. When you are casting and forming, simply work in a styrofoam block or something like that. When all is set and dry, remove / burn away the styrofoam and cast in the refractory.
  18. Bruno

    Bruno Administrator Staff Member

    Btw following Charlie's example I increase the working pressure on my big forge, and it got up to welding heat in 20 minutes or so.
    Still I am going to replace it with something that has thinner walls. Now my walls are 3" thick in total. With a bit of luck, today my friend will get a big bag of castable refractory and mail it to me.

    Carbon monoxide is not a concern to me because my forge is outside under a roof, so ventilation is not an issue.
  19. 32t

    32t Member

    It isn't much but did a little today.

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  20. Gasman

    Gasman Show me that again!

    I'm no Forging kinda guy but, I think you might need a better stand for it other than the couch. HA. At least you can now carry it when it get too hot for the couch. :p
    verndahl, paul76 and Charlie Lewis like this.

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