My little "shop" and a few toys from it

Shawn

Member
I used to be an ironworker, so there is a short handled 8 pound hammer that has been swung many times driving bullpins near the anvil. So got that part covered. :D

That makes a lot of sense. The 15n20 I got wasn't too bad price wise, but being so thin I notice it is disappearing fast. Also, accounting for decarburizing slipped my mind at the time I was setting up the stack. So that makes a lot of sense also.

Thanks for all the tips and help Mike.
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
Your arm will get stronger. Or you'll get a bigger hammer...so begins the tool acquisition disorder.

At higher temperatures the steel will move easier. Don't let it get too cold and keep it moving.

Either 1095 or 15N20 will make a fine edge by itself. The 1095 was cheaper for me to buy so I put some on the outside because decarburizing a cheaper steel made sense to my frugal nature. It makes no sense except for that reason. It's your choice on your steel.
Plus: if the 1095 is thicker, you will still have 5 layers when you are done welding the billet, because you will lose a LOT of steel on the outside as scale. If you have thing 15n20 on the outside, chances are most of it will be gone by the time you're ready. And it doesn't matter how thinthe 15n20 is. the nickel will not disappear so it will show up clear as day when etching.
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
Congratulations! I have sometime yet before i get there. That's a cutie for sure.
And a couple of years down the line he can hang out in the shop with gramps!
 

Mike Blue

Member
Forget about what you thought was a normal life. Grandchildren will blow any plan out of your head in favor of lying on the floor re-learning baby talk.

Wait til hockey starts....LOL
 
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