My little "shop" and a few toys from it

Shawn

Member
I used to be an ironworker, so there is a short handled 8 pound hammer that has been swung many times driving bullpins near the anvil. So got that part covered. :D

That makes a lot of sense. The 15n20 I got wasn't too bad price wise, but being so thin I notice it is disappearing fast. Also, accounting for decarburizing slipped my mind at the time I was setting up the stack. So that makes a lot of sense also.

Thanks for all the tips and help Mike.
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
Your arm will get stronger. Or you'll get a bigger hammer...so begins the tool acquisition disorder.

At higher temperatures the steel will move easier. Don't let it get too cold and keep it moving.

Either 1095 or 15N20 will make a fine edge by itself. The 1095 was cheaper for me to buy so I put some on the outside because decarburizing a cheaper steel made sense to my frugal nature. It makes no sense except for that reason. It's your choice on your steel.
Plus: if the 1095 is thicker, you will still have 5 layers when you are done welding the billet, because you will lose a LOT of steel on the outside as scale. If you have thing 15n20 on the outside, chances are most of it will be gone by the time you're ready. And it doesn't matter how thinthe 15n20 is. the nickel will not disappear so it will show up clear as day when etching.
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
Congratulations! I have sometime yet before i get there. That's a cutie for sure.
And a couple of years down the line he can hang out in the shop with gramps!
 

Mike Blue

Member
Forget about what you thought was a normal life. Grandchildren will blow any plan out of your head in favor of lying on the floor re-learning baby talk.

Wait til hockey starts....LOL
 

Shawn

Member
I know I've been MIA again, but I'm still kicking. Been really busy with that stupid real life thing, so I haven't had much time for forging or anything else really for that matter....

I have been wanting one of these blade grinding jigs for a while, but never had the extra $200 or so just lying around to get one.

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So I happened to get a little bit of slow time at work so I made up some stuff and tried to copy the picture.


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RezDog

Member
That should be very effective. It looks like it has a lot of adjustment and you should be able to get everything quite true with that setup.
 

Shawn

Member
Since I built the blade jig, I decided that after 3 years it was finally time to build a table for my grinder. Had a little free time today, so I threw something together. This one will be mounted to the workbench the belt grinder is on. Then I will have vertical and horizontal adjustment, as well as swivel if needed.
I actually machined a recess into the top of the upright support before welding the pin onto it. That way the pin nestled in there and was good and square.

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