Surprise in todays Post.

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
When I finish with 600 and take care to erase the previous lines, handsanding doesn't take long and is not a big bother. It does produce a bit nicer shine. But as you say, my personal opinion is that any time I spend a lot of time on handsanding, I've wasted a lot of time that could have been spent doing something fun.
 

MotoMike

New Member
I currently have belts from 36 to 7000 grit the high grits get hot but beat hand sanding more than you have too
Wow. 7000, you must not have to do any hand sanding. Because of my inexperience on the grinder for finer detail, I wanted to go to the hand sanding early rather than later. but that is a lot of work.
 

MotoMike

New Member
Ok, I took the knife back to the grinder with my 220 on it. getting the grind marks out with hand sanding was killing my buzz. I've continued hand sanding now and am up to 400.
I was planning on setting the bevel by hand on stones. what is your guidance on that? etch first then bevels or the other way around?
 

Substance

New Member
I set most of the bevels etc early then etch, ( less chance of scatching etch), then final bevels clean & sharpen is post etch
 

MotoMike

New Member
got a little more progress.
I made a wa handle with a bit of western influence. used some ash I have on hand and a piece of dear antler as the ferrule. The blade turned out to be a little less than 1/8th inch thick. for about 3/4 of its length where the distal taper begins. I took it to 1000 grit before etching. Seen here it is etched with cleaning vinegar. It does not show in these pics but the dark areas are reminiscent of gun bluing. I have more work to do on it, but here it is. Once I get it finished I'll take some good images in better lighting to show the detail. I have learned a tremendous amount. I think I might need a jig to set the bevels. I got a bit sloppy on one side. The pattern is very cool I think. On the left side it looks like a ghost face near the middle, and on the right side it looks like a big storm coming in.
I have a bit more handle work to do, sharpening and then I guess it'll be ready do process some protein!!
I'm test fitting here. not glued up.

Bruno29.jpg

This is upside down but the ghost is in there, trust me.
bruno28.jpg

This one is the storm coming in. a dark front coming from the left with fluffy clouds on the tip end.

bruno30.jpg

About ready for the epoxy.
bruno27.jpg

Clamped up and waiting the cure. I've probably messed up a bunch, but I have gained a lot of knowledge and confidence. Thanks Bruno.
 

32t

Member
I like your handle.

I have been looking at buying material but I think this tips the scale for me to what I have on hand.
 

MotoMike

New Member
I like your handle.

I have been looking at buying material but I think this tips the scale for me to what I have on hand.
Thanks 32. I didn't have the dear antler on hand, but where we live, most everyone (but me) is a hunter. Reached out to a buddy who has hundreds of them from sheds he found in the woods. This was from his flawed or undesirable bin.
 

verndahl

AKA tintin
Maybe i missed it but when one does a handle like that is it done in 2 pieces or with a hole drilled straight through and then filled with epoxy?
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
Depends on the construction. Both are possible.
Sometimes I make the handle out of 3 layers, with the middle layer having a bright color, and before I glue everything together I cut out the shape of the tang in the middle part.
But when working with solid blocks, you just drill a hole, and then make it wider.
 

MotoMike

New Member
I am sorry that I did not show that part Vern. I glued the handle blank and the section of dear antler together. after cure I drilled a 3/8 inch hole deep into the handle with it trued up on the drill press and clamped in the vice. At this point it is about an inch longer than the intended finished handle. I then carefully slotted a piece of 3/8 hard wood dowel on my table saw to the thickness of a little less than 1/8 inch so that it fit the tang closely but without making the dowel bow out to more than the original diameter. after test fit and finish cutting the dowel, I slathered the parts all with epoxy and assembled. this method though not really using the deer antler as a proper ferrule, does allow me to do fine adjustments of rotating the knife tang in the handle to get it as straight as possible. . clamped up and allowed to cure. My hope is that it is all a solid piece that is strong owed to the dowel and tang going through it.
 

MotoMike

New Member
bruno32.jpg
I like the idea of a bright colored spacer or at least a contrasting color. My original thought was that the antler would be darker and provide the contrast I wanted. When the section I decided to use was selected because it had little of the porous center section, it turned out lighter and really not much contrast with the ash. I have just treated it with raw linseed oil and it did bring out the handle grain and give a bit of contrast, but still not what I originally wanted. I was not patient enough to find another ferrule material.
 
Last edited:

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
I think you can still stain it darker using leather stain or so, if you mask the wood from the handle.
Make a test piece with a little piece of antler and wood first, and just see :)
 

Shawn

New Member
Mike this is looking awesome! Sorry I haven't been around keeping up on it, but had a lot of things come up. Looks like you have been in really good hands though and are making excellent progress!
 
Top