Thickness-ing thingy

[Charlie Lewis]

Here is what have been toying with. Just a hinge and jack screw. I was worried about the top being surface being too thin but so far no problems. I have been running small billets back and forth underneath the wheel. I welded a thin long handle to the pull back and forth on.

There is a bit of a learning curve, at first the thickness would vary to much .007 over 6 inches. I was not keeping my push/pull handle and the same plane as surface as I was lifting it up. If I hold my tongue right I can get all four corners are within .003 or .002. I am happy with that.

Now to figure out how to make the magnetic chuck/sled.

I blame Victor, If he would not have shown me his surface grinder attachment, I would not be so damn obsessed with getting this to work. I thank and curse Victor at the same time

 

[petercp4e]

Victor is the enabler.
You are the Mad Scientist.
Can't wait to see it operating in February!

Pete <:-}

 

[RezDog]

That looks good. I would say those tolerances are easy to work within. So are you using it to flatten damascus billets. Are there a bunch of new blades on the horizon. I bet you enjoyed the problem solving and tinkering!

 

[Mike Blue]

Hmm, where's the wood? What have you done with the real Charlie?

 

[32t]

The hinge and the jack screw look much more solid than the single bolt that the whole thing pivots on. Or is that welded?

Making a triangle to your base would sturdy that thing up.

 

[Charlie Lewis]

That looks good. I would say those tolerances are easy to work within. So are you using it to flatten damascus billets. Are there a bunch of new blades on the horizon. I bet you enjoyed the problem solving and tinkering!

I have a few razors in progress. Yes this is for billets. The tinkering is easier when there is some Canadian engineering involved.

The hinge and the jack screw look much more solid than the single bolt that the whole thing pivots on. Or is that welded?

Making a triangle to your base would sturdy that thing up.

The 1/2 bolt holding the rectangular tubing to the square bar is surprisingly stiff. What wobble there is comes from the crappy hinge. I also wish the jacking screw had some resistance to it I miaght add a spring of some sort.

Hmm, where's the wood? What have you done with the real Charlie?

When I make an official push me pull me sled it will have a wooden handle

 

[Bruno]

Hmm, where's the wood? What have you done with the real Charlie?

Yeah and the steel looks very clean and not at all jerryrigged.

 

[verndahl]

I built my own version of the luthiers friend sander which is a similar idea. There is some variance in the thickness even though i'm using wood or horn. It all seems to depend on the speed of the feed and being able to hold the wood evenly against the fence. Most of the time several passes at the same thickness makes it even enough. Some sort of sled would definitely make it more precise. (as long as what the sled is sliding on something precise )

 

[32t]

Yeah and the steel looks very clean and not at all jerryrigged.

I still see the C clamp holding it together.

@ charlie With your push me pull me handle what works best pushing or pulling?

I would think pulling.............

 

[verndahl]

as i was thinking about my set up i realized that i do use a sort of sled. i always glue (with rubber cement) my scales to a flat piece of wood before i slide it through. this gives more control and a way to hold it flat against the guide. Maybe tacking the steel to a larger flat piece would make it easier to keep flat?

 

[Charlie Lewis]

I still see the C clamp holding it together.

@ charlie With your push me pull me handle what works best pushing or pulling?

I would think pulling.............

The C-clamp holds the attachment on, it is the path of least resistance I am going to continue using it.

Pull or push are about the same, What I have found though is standing on milk crate gets me at a better height to do the push/pulling.

as i was thinking about my set up i realized that i do use a sort of sled. i always glue (with rubber cement) my scales to a flat piece of wood before i slide it through. this gives more control and a way to hold it flat against the guide. Maybe tacking the steel to a larger flat piece would make it easier to keep flat?

It is very similar to the luthiers friend type sander. I have a piece of slick plastic cutting board that I want to mount the magnets to make a sled. I think the plastic would slide easily on the metal.

 

[cangooner]

as i was thinking about my set up i realized that i do use a sort of sled. i always glue (with rubber cement) my scales to a flat piece of wood before i slide it through. this gives more control and a way to hold it flat against the guide. Maybe tacking the steel to a larger flat piece would make it easier to keep flat?

Do you know the masking tape & CA trick? Stick a piece of masking/painter's tape on each piece to be glued, then glue the tape back to back with CA. It works great, has surprising resistance to slippage, and is super-easy to remove with next to no clean up. I haven't used rubber cement once since stumbling on to this approach.

 

[verndahl]

I've heard of it but haven't tried it. Maybe i will next time.

 

[Victor Creazzi]

Do you know the masking tape & CA trick? Stick a piece of masking/painter's tape on each piece to be glued, then glue the tape back to back with CA

Charlie knows all about this. I showed it to him last summer. Remember Charlie? By the way it worked great.

 

[Victor Creazzi]

@ charlie With your push me pull me handle what works best pushing or pulling?

I would think pulling.............

I only cut on the pull stroke with my set up.