Wish me luck....

Shawn

Member
This is either going to look completely baddass, or it's going to go horribly wrong and this will be a really short thread.....

80crv2 core, copper mid layers, and 15n20 jacket. Saw it done, looks amazing, don't know if I can pull it off, but I have to try.
 

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cangooner

Cheese enthusiast
Good luck! I've seen a few examples of this recently too, so it's on my list to try some day. Please keep us posted with a long and successful thread! :)
 

RezDog

Member
Are you making a pattern or just layering it. There are some nice examples of this out there. I am curious to hear what struggles and successes you have. We often learn the most from what hit the bin. Hopefully this is a great learning experience without much failure, which is difficult for me.
 

Shawn

Member
Thanks guys. So far I have everything sanded clean, cleaned and wiped with contact cleaner, put together and seal welded all the way around. I took a couple pics of the stack before and after welding but ill put them up when I get home. Tough for me to do on my phone. (Its too smart for me)
Stacked it at work because our big welder does a cleaner job than my little flux core one at home.

As far as pattern, it is a bit thick so I'm going to go at it hard with my round dies in my guillotine tool and see if I can get that sort of ladder out of it.
 

Shawn

Member
Read about mokume first...
Any particular sources Mike? Most of the stuff I see in a Google search pertains to jewelry or decorative pieces that don't require keeping my core for an edge.
Or did you just mean in general as a better understanding of pattern processes and concept?
 

Bruno

Administrator
Staff member
I think I've seen Ryan Rowe do this on his FB page.
It looks neat, though I read that temperature control is important because you're close to melting temperature for the copper.
I think he uses the term cumai.
 

Shawn

Member
Cumai is what I saw it called also. I also saw in the videos I was watching of Tyrrell knifeworks making them about the temperature. Around 1400F is where you want to stay if I remember correctly. Going to confirm before lighting the forge.
 

cangooner

Cheese enthusiast
When I started thinking about playing with this, I found this helpful (caveat: I haven't actually tried making this stuff yet, but he gives what looks to be a pretty thorough guide):
 

Shawn

Member
As promised, here is the stack before and after welding it up. If It doesn't work, at least there will be something in this thread. :D

Clamps make it look a bit small, but it is 1 1/2 inches wide, 6 inches long, and 1/2 inch thick. By the time I get it smooshed down, it should be drawn out enough to make something about the size of what I carry every day now.
I was going to try and work on it tonight, but spent all evening trying to get my toilet to flush.... Sucks the nearest parts store is 30 minutes away...

1910


1911
 

Shawn

Member
When I started thinking about playing with this, I found this helpful (caveat: I haven't actually tried making this stuff yet, but he gives what looks to be a pretty thorough guide):
Interesting the way he encased the whole thing in tin. The one I watched the stack was just welded like I did with mine. Not saying either is wrong of course, because they both turned out excellent results. Just interesting seeing the different approaches.

Here is the first one I watched that got me wanting to do it.

 

Victor Creazzi

King of Bondo
Wait, it's not going to be a razor?! Get it outa here... Just kidding.

I don't have the bandwidth to watch the videos, but are you sure he wrapped it with tin? I could see stainless foil being useful.
 

Shawn

Member
Maybe a little heavier than tin, but definitely a secondary box that he welded. Basically turned it into a canoe canister type of thing.

And if it goes well and I ever get of my butt to figure out my grinds I will definitely do a razor like that. If.... :p
 

Victor Creazzi

King of Bondo
Maybe a little heavier than tin, but definitely a secondary box that he welded. Basically turned it into a canoe canister type of thing.

And if it goes well and I ever get of my butt to figure out my grinds I will definitely do a razor like that. If.... :p
Oh! I see, he made a can. Like I said I haven't watched the video. Maybe I'll get up tp the library and watch it there.
 

cangooner

Cheese enthusiast
Oh! I see, he made a can. Like I said I haven't watched the video. Maybe I'll get up tp the library and watch it there.
He did a kind of partial can, adding strips of what looks like 1/8 or 1/16" steel along the edges where the copper is exposed. That was then welded to the outermost layers of the billet. Looks like a sensible approach to me as it should seal the copper in to keep it all from skooshing out, but without having to remove a can from all sides.
 

Shawn

Member
@Bruno Can you do me a big favor and fix the title of the thread. I know I'm an idiot and can't type, but I don't have to advertise it. :p
 

Shawn

Member
Well...... Short thread. I started forging at 1800 degrees on a hot anvil. Worked it hot and didn't let it get anywhere near red before going back into the fire. Everything started to go ok, then my 15n20 jacket split near the edge where it was welded allowing my copper to leak out. I did a little grinding and there was a minuscule ribbon, but the crack was too far in towards the center to make it worth doing the rest of the work.

The 15n20 looked horrible, like it had been overcooked in a coal forge. Really don't know what was going on there but I wasn't impressed at all. I'm running propane, thermocouple with a readout, needle valve to regulate... Should have been clean and as long as my thermocouple is even close the copper should never even have gotten to melting temps.

So I am clueless, and putting this idea away for now. Going back to finishing the 5 I have going at the moment...
 
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